(On Canadian Hotlist)

Functions: Hair colorant
Potential Effects: On alist of substances facing a ban by the EU; awaiting the submission of safety data; toxic to aquatic organisms
Cosmetic Uses: Orange-red and medium brown hair dyes

Our assessment:

(abietol; from pine resin)

Functions: Stabiliser, Texturiser
Potential Effects: Can cause allergic reactions; skin and mucous membrane irritation; harmful to marine life
Cosmetic Uses: Soap manufacture, foaming face wash
Other Uses: Making vinyls, lacquers and plastics

Our assessment:

(derived from acetaldehyde)

Functions: Flavouring, Solvent
Potential Effects: CNS depressant; respiratory depression; cardiovascular collapse, no known skin toxicity, possible high blood pressure; on NIH hazard list
Cosmetic Uses: Synthetic perfumes
Other Uses: Fruit flavouring in foods, hypnotic in medicine

Our assessment:

(ethanal: may be from animal origin)

Functions: Solvent Intermediate
Potential Effects: Mucous membrane irritation; liver damaqge; respiratory, kidney and neurotoxicity; CNS depression; skin irritation; teratogenic; carcinogenic; harmful to aquatic organisms
Cosmetic Uses: Fragrance in cosmetics, perfume manufacture
Other Uses: Silvering of mirrors, synthetic rubber

Functions: Antistatic agent
Potential Effects: (see Quaternary ammonium compounds)
Cosmetic Uses: Shampoos and conditioners, bath soaps
Other Uses: Detergents

Our assessment:

(acetarsone)

Functions: Anti-microbial
Potential Effects: Sensitisation; allergic reactions; lethal dose in mice is only 0.004g/kg of body weight!
Cosmetic Uses: Mouthwash, toothpaste, feminine hygiene products

Our assessment:

(n-acetyl ethanolamine)

Functions: Humecant, Antistatic agent
Potential Effects: Mild skin irritation; caused liver cancer in rats; may contain DEA (see Diethanolamine)
Cosmetic Uses: Hair shampoos and conditioners, skin cream, hair tonic

Our assessment:

(occurs naturally in some fruits and plants)

Functions: Solvent, Rubefacient
Potential Effects: Skin irritation; hives; skin rash; caused cancer in mice and rats - orally and by injection; harmful to aquatic organisms
Cosmetic Uses: Hand lotions, hair dyes, freckle bleaching creams

Our assessment:

(derived from oxidation or fermentation)

Functions: Solvent, Denaturant
Potential Effects: Brittle nails; peeling and splitting nails; lung irritation; skin rashes; eye irritation; cardiovascular, liver and neurotoxicity
Cosmetic Uses: Nail polish; nail polish remover
Other Uses: Solvent for airplane glues, cellulose glues, paint thinners

Our assessment:

(methylacyanide; percursor of cyanide; on Canadian Hotlist)

Functions: Solvent
Potential Effects: Nervous system poison; skin irritation; gastrointestinal and liver toxicity; teratogenic; fatal if swallowed
Cosmetic Uses: Artificital nails remover
Other Uses: Extraction processes

Our assessment:

(may be of animal origin)

Functions: Additive, Biological
Potential Effects: Nonessential amino acid; generally recognised as safe
Cosmetic Uses: Cosmetics, suntan creams and liquids
Other Uses: Dietary supplement

Our assessment:

(of animal origin but may be contaminated with pesticide residues)

Functions: Emulsifier, Emollient
Potential Effects: Undergoing review for safety (see lanolin)
Cosmetic Uses: Baby products, lipsticks, cosmetic creams, eye makeup, hair conditioner

Our assessment:

(see acetylated lanolin)

Functions: Emulsifier, Emollient
Potential Effects: Claimed to hypoallergenic; may be drying to the skin
Cosmetic Uses: Eye shadow, skin moisturisers, bath soaps, colognes

Our assessment:

(of animal origin)

Functions: Antistatic agent
Potential Effects: Considered safe in cosmetic uses
Cosmetic Uses: Hair conditioners, skin conditioners

Our assessment:

(black, brown, blue, green, orange, red, violet, yellow, synthetic coal tar/azo dyes)

Functions: Hair dyes
Potential Effects: Many can cause skin, eye and mucous membrane irritation; (see azo dyes and coal tar)
Cosmetic Uses: Tints and dyes for hair colouring

Our assessment:

(synthetic, from petroleum)

Functions: Binder, Film former
Potential Effects: Acrylates are strong irritants
Cosmetic Uses: Mail polish, hair spray, blusher, mascara

Our assessment:

(acrylamide is derived from acrylonitrile and sulphuric acid)

Functions: Film former, Thickner
Potential Effects: Acrylamide causes liver, reproductive and neurotoxicity; toxic by skin absorbtion; hazarous to the environment; especially harmful to fish
Cosmetic Uses: Nail enamels, cosmetics

Our assessment:

(derived from algae)

Functions: Botanical additive
Potential Effects: No known adverse effects
Cosmetic Uses: Skin conditioners, beauty aids

Our assessment:

(ethanol)

Functions: Solvent
Potential Effects: Implicated in mouth, throat and tongue cancers; contact dermatitis; drying to the skin and hair if used in eccess
Cosmetic Uses: Mouthwash, facial cleanser, perfumes, aftershave
Other Uses: alcoholic beverages

Our assessment:

Functions: Detergent
Potential Effects: Believed to be non-toxic orally; drying to the skin; may cause skin irritation
Cosmetic Uses: Shampoos, bubble bath

Our assessment:

(can be extracted from uric acid, found in comfrey root, may be of animal origin)

Functions: Antimicrobial, Oral care agent
Potential Effects: May accelerate cell growth promoting healing of fractures, scars, wounds; may alleviate psoriasis
Cosmetic Uses: Cold creams, hand lotions, hair lotions, aftershave lotions, hair conditioners

Our assessment:

Functions: Botanical additive
Potential Effects: No known adverse effects; reputed to have beneficial and healing effects on the body
Cosmetic Uses: Skin creams, deoderants, soaps, shaving creams

Our assessment:

(AHA's: glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, salicyclkic acid, L-alpha hydroxy acid, mixed fruit acids and others; on the Canadian hotlist)

Functions: Exfoliant
Potential Effects: Longterm skin damage; skin discolouration; swelling, especially around the eyes; skin blistering; itchines; rashes; liver toxicity; photosensitivity; higher risk of skin cancer. DO NOT USE on children or infants
Cosmetic Uses: Skin peels, skin toner, face and body creams, cuticle softeners, skin cleansers, skin improvers, shampoos

Our assessment:

(mixture including acetic acid and boric acid)

Functions: Antimicrobial
Potential Effects: Skin rashes; severe sloughing of the skin; ingestion of large doses can cause diarrhoea, nausea, vomiting and bleeding
Cosmetic Uses: Antipersipants; deodorants, barrier creams
Other Uses: Waterproofing, fabric finishes, dye for furs

Our assessment:

(salt of aluminium)

Function: Deodorant agent
Potential Effects: Skin irritation; allergic reactions; reproductive and neurotoxicity; teratogenic, harmful to aquatic organisms; (see also aluminium)
Cosmetic Uses: Lipsticks; anti-perspirants

Our assessment:

(salt of aluminium)

Function: Deodorant agent
Potential Effects: COntanct allergic reactions; hair follicle infections; irritation to abraded skin (see also aluminium)
Cosmetic Uses: Deodorants; anti-perspirants

Function: Deodorant agent
Potential Effects: allergic reactions; skin irritation; lung damage; granulomas  (see also aluminium)
Cosmetic Uses: Non-aerosol anti-perspirants; deodorants

(derived from sperm whales; of animal origin)

Function: Fixative; flavouring
Potential Effects: 80% cholesterol, no adverse effects known in humans
Cosmetic Uses: Perfumery
Other Uses: Flavouring for food and beverages

Our assessment:

(an alcohol made from nitrogen compounds)

Function:Emulsifier
Potential Effects: Considered safe in cosmetic use up to 1% concentration; may cause skin irritation
Cosmetic Uses:Hairspray; shaving cream; cosmetic creams; deodorant

Functions: Colorant
Potential Effects: See 2-amino-4-nitrophenol
Cosmetic Uses: Hair dyes

Our assessment:

Functions: Neutraliser; buffer
Potential Effects: Skin rash on scalp, forehead and hands; contact dermatitis
Cosmetic Uses: Permanent wave solutions and creams
Other Uses: Fire extinguishers

Our assessment:

Function: Acidifier; buffer
Potential Effects: Possible skin and eye irritation in some people; toxic to aquatic organisms
Cosmetic Uses: Bubble baths; hair bleach; shampoos
Other Uses: Batteries; dyes; medicines

Our assessment:

Function: Cleanser
Potential Effects: Considered safe in cosmetics; may cause skin rashes
Cosmetic Uses: Soaps; shampoos

Our assessment:

(may be of animal origin)

Function: Surfactant
Potential Effects: May be contaminated with carcinogenic nitrosamines
Cosmetic Uses: Shampoos; dentifrices (see sarcosines)

Our assessment:

(solution of ammonia and water)

Function: Denaturant; buffering agent
Potential Effects: Irritating to eyes and mucous membranes; may cause hair breakage; toxic by ingestion; harmful to the environment
Cosmetic Uses: Hair dyes; hair straightener; barrier cream; mascaras
Other Uses: Cigarettes; stain removers; detergents

Our assessment:

Function: Surfacant
Potential Effects: May be contaminated with carcinogenic nitrosamines
Cosmetic Uses: Shampoos; bubble baths; hand wash
Other Uses: Dishwashing liquid; detergent

Our assessment:

Function: surfacant
Potential Effects: may be contaminated with carcinogenic nitrosamines (see sarcosines)
Cosmetic Uses: Shampoos; toothpastes

Our assessment:

Function: Surfactant; foaming agent
Potential Effects: Eye and skin irritation; repeated contact may dry skin; may cause contamination with nitrosamines
Cosmetic Uses: shampoos; bubble baths; liquid hand and body wash; toothpaste; bath gel
Other Uses: Dishwashing liquid; car wash detergent

Our assessment: