Over the past few decades the Cosmetics Industry has really come into it's own, and is now a large wealth generator for not just the Cosmetics Giants, but also the media as well. These company's spend vast amounts of money directly attempting to convince you that you need their products to stay desirable and successful. What is a little harder to understand is what the ingredients on the back labels actually are, and what they could be doing to your skin and health in the long term. Americans shelled out $US44.6 billion for anti-aging products and services in 2004 alone, according to a report by Business Communications. But what do such supposedly time-defying potions actually do?

"Anti-aging creams are not held to any standard, so we don't know if they work" said Rebecca Kazin, assistant professor of Dermatology and Medical Director of the John Hopkins Cosmetic Centre. She encourages consumers to buy and apply the creams with a healthy dollop of scepticism.

This article will hopefully serve as a motivator to get you thinking more about what you chose to place on your skin. The skin is the bodies largest organ, and acts as a direct interface between you and the outside environment. What you choose to put on your skin is absorbed and enters into your body's systems for processing. The skin is not a plastic raincoat that just sheds everything, it is rather more like an absorbant sponge soaking up all that it can. Some things are too big and sit on the surface of the sponge tainting it, whilst others soak right through.

There has been much widely available about this topic over the years, which we hope to touch on in this section in the coming months. In the mean time please gather your favourite cosmetics and hunt out the ingredients in the following list and see if you are ready to change!

Your Guide to Ingredients in Cosmetic and Personal Care Products.

Abietic Acid  ?

(abietol; from pine resin)

Functions: Stabiliser, Texturiser
Potential Effects: Can cause allergic reactions; skin and mucous membrane irritation; harmful to marine life
Cosmetic Uses: Soap manufacture, foaming face wash
Other Uses: Making vinyls, lacquers and plastics

Acetal

(derived from acetaldehyde)

Functions: Flavouring, Solvent
Potential Effects: CNS depressant; respiratory depression; cardiovascular collapse, no known skin toxicity, possible high blood pressure; on NIH hazzard list
Cosmetic Uses: Synthetic perfumes
Other Uses: Fruit flavouring in foods, hypnotic in medicine

Acetaldehyde

(ethanal: may be from animal origin)

Functions: Solvent Intermediate
Potential Effects: Mucous membrane irritation; liver damaqge; respiratory, kidney and neurotoxicity; CNS depression; skin irritation; teratogenic; carcinogenic; harmful to aquatic organisms
Cosmetic Uses: Fragrance in cosmetics, perfume manufacture
Other Uses: Silvering of mirrors, synthetic rubber

Acetemide MEA ?

(n-acetyl ethanolamine)

Functions: Humecant, Anistatic agent
Potential Effects: Mild skin irritation; caused liver cancer in rats; may contain DEA (see Diethanolamine)
Cosmetic Uses: Hair shampoos and conditionsers, skin cream, hair tonic
Other Uses:

Acetaminopropyl Trimonium Chloride ?

Functions: Antistatic agent
Potential Effects: (see Quaternary ammonium compounds)
Cosmetic Uses: Shampoos and conditioners, bath soaps
Other Uses: Detergents

Acetarsol ?

(acetarsone)

Functions: Anti-microbial
Potential Effects: Sensitisation; allergic reactions; lethal dose in mice is only 0.004g/kg of body weight!
Cosmetic Uses: Mouthwash, toothpaste, feminine hygene products
Other Uses:

Acetic Acid ?

(occurs naturally in some fruits and plants)

Functions: Solvent, Rubefacient
Potential Effects: Skin irritation; hives; skin rash; caused cancer in mice and rats - orally and by injection; harmful to aquatic organisms
Cosmetic Uses: Hand lotions, hair dyes, freckle bleaching creams
Other Uses:

Acetone

(derived from oxidation or fermentation)

Functions: Solvent, Denaturant
Potential Effects: Brittle nails; peeling and splitting nails; lung irritation; skin rashes; eye irritation; cardiovascular, liver and neurotoxicity
Cosmetic Uses: Nail polish; nail polish remover
Other Uses: Solvent for airplane glues, cellulose glues, paint thinners

Acetonitrile

(methylacyanide; percursor of cyanide; on Canadian Hotlist)

Functions: Solvent
Potential Effects: Nervous system poison; skin irritation; gastrointestinal and liver toxicity; teratogenic; fatal if swallowed
Cosmetic Uses: Artificital nails remover
Other Uses: Extraction processes

Acetyl Tryosine

(may be of animal origin)

Functions: Additive, Biological
Potential Effects: Nonessential amino acid; generally recognised as safe
Cosmetic Uses: Cosmetics, suntan creams and liquids
Other Uses: Dietary supplement

Acetylated Lanolin ?

(of animal origin but may be contaminated with pesticide residues)

Functions: Emulsifier, Emollient
Potential Effects: Undergoing review for safety (see lanolin)
Cosmetic Uses: Baby products, lipsticks, cosmetic creams, eye makeup, hair conditioner
Other Uses:

Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol

(see acetylated lanolin)

Functions: Emulsifier, Emollient
Potential Effects: Claimed to hypoallergenic; may be drying to the skin
Cosmetic Uses: Eye shadow, skin moisturisers, bath soaps, colognes
Other Uses:

Acetylmethionyl Methylsilanol Elastinate

(of animal origin)

Functions: Antistatic agent
Potential Effects: Considered safe in cosmetic uses
Cosmetic Uses: Hair conditioners, skin conditioners
Other Uses:

Acid Colours eg Acid Red 14

(black, brown, blue, green, orange, red, violet, yellow, synthetic coal tar/azo dyes)

Functions: Hair dyes
Potential Effects: Many can cause skin, eye and mucous membrane irritation; (see azo dyes and coal tar)
Cosmetic Uses: Tints and dyes for hair colouring
Other Uses:

Acylamide Copolymer

(acrylamide is derived from acrylonitrile and sulphuric acid)

Functions: Film former, Thickner
Potential Effects: Acrylamide causes liver, reproductive and neurotoxicity; toxic by skin absorbtion; hazarous to the environment; especially harmful to fish
Cosmetic Uses: Nail enamels, cosmetics
Other Uses:

Acrylates Copolomer ?

(synthetic, from petroleum)

Functions: Binder, Film former
Potential Effects: Acrylates are strong irritants
Cosmetic Uses: Mail polish, hair spray, blusher, mascara
Other Uses:

Ahnfeltia Concinna

(derived from algae)

Functions: Botanical additive
Potential Effects: No known adverse effects
Cosmetic Uses: Skin conditioners, beauty aids
Other Uses:

Alcohol ?

(ethanol)

Functions: Solvent
Potential Effects: Implicated in mouth, throat and tongue cancers; contact dermatitis; drying to the skin and hair if used in eccess
Cosmetic Uses: Mouthwash, facial cleanser, perfumes, aftershave
Other Uses: alcoholic beverages

Alkyl Benzene Sulfonate ?

Functions: Detergent
Potential Effects: Believed to be nontoxic orally; drying to the skin; may cause skin irritation
Cosmetic Uses: Shampoos, bubble bath
Other Uses:

Allantoin

(can be extracted from uric acid, found in comfrey root, amy be of animal origin)

Functions: Antimicrobial, Oral care agent
Potential Effects: May accelerate cell growth promoting healing of fractures, scars, wounds; may alleviate psoriasis
Cosmetic Uses: Cold creams, hand lotions, hair lotions, aftershave lotions, hair conditioners
Other Uses:

Aloe Vera (incl. Gel and Extract)

Functions: Botanical additive
Potential Effects: No known adverse effects; reputed to have beneficial and healing effects on the body
Cosmetic Uses: Skin creams, deoderants, soaps, shaving creams
Other Uses:

Alpha Hydroxy Acids 

(AHA's: glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, salicyclkic acid, L-alpha hydroxy acid, mixed fruit acids and others; on the Canadian hotlist)

Functions: Exfolient
Potential Effects: Longterm skin damage; skin discolouration; swelling, especially around the eyes; skin blistering; itchines; rashes; liver toxicity; photosensitivity; higher risk of skin cancer. DO NOT USE on children or infants
Cosmetic Uses: Skin peels, skin toner, face and body creams, cuticle softeners, skin cleansers, skin improvers, shampoos
Other Uses:

Aluminium Acetate

(mixture including acetic acid and boric acid)

Functions: Antimicrobial
Potential Effects: Skin rashes; severe sloughing of the skin; ingestion of large doses can cause diarrhoea, nausea, vomiting and bleeding
Cosmetic Uses: Antipersipants; deoderants, barrier creams
Other Uses: Waterproofing, fabric finishes, dye for furs